“Never thought my dad’s sandals would make it to a runway show.”
This was a statement posted by a netizen in response to seeing the Kolhapuri sandal collection displayed during the Prada runway show. All pointed out that they suspiciously resembled the Kolhapuri chappal — a handcrafted Indian sandal native to Kolhapur, a city in the western Indian state of Maharashtra.
Hundreds of mocking comments were left on social media posts about the luxury brand’s sandals.
The design elements, construction, and overall aesthetic have been lifted almost entirely from this footwear style and directly applied to Prada’s new sandal. Prada is being accused of profiting from a traditional Indian craft without acknowledgement, credit, or collaboration.
A member of India’s ruling Bharatiya Janata Party (BJP), Dhananjay Mahadik, led a delegation of artisans who craft this traditional footwear. Mr Mahadik said he presented a letter to the Maharashtra Chief Minister Devendra Fadnavis, urging the state to act against what they deemed was cultural and commercial appropriation. He further stated that the revenue generated from the sale of these sandals should go to the artisans who craft the Kolhapuri chappals.
The Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce wrote to Prada chairperson Patrizio Bertelli about the concerns of sandal makers. Two days later, he responded. It acknowledged that the design was inspired by the sandals made in India.
“Prada 0: Kolhapur 1,” said an Instagram post by e-commerce website Shopkop, whose founder Rahul Parasu Kamble’s open letter to Prada pointing out the footwear is “soaked in tradition” was reshared 36,000 times on social media.
Due to the Prada controversy, Kolhapuri chappals are in demand, with sales increasing in just a matter of days.
“I saw the controversy as a way to promote Kolhapuri,” said Kamble, 33, who has seen sales of sandals he sources from local artisans touch 50,000 rupees ($584) in three days, five times the average.
E-commerce website Niira is offering up to 50% discounts on its Kolhapuri slippers it says are “rooted in tradition”. Its sales of $18 sandals, that looked like the one Prada showcased in Milan, have tripled, founder Nishant Raut said.
Prada’s sandals are reportedly priced at $1,200 a pair. By contrast, the authentic Kolhapuri sandals can be found in Indian markets for as little as $10. In 2019, India’s government officially recognised Kolhapuri chappals as being first made in the city of Kolhapur.
“This tag formally recognises their unique cultural heritage and links them to a specific region,” said Arshiya Kapoor, associate professor in fashion design and marketing at India’s MIT Institute of Design.
